In February my family escaped the hectic grind of Dublin to see the Northwest part of Ireland for a short holiday in county Donegal. 300 shades of Irish green gave way to surprisingly brilliant earth tones as marshlands took over the landscape. Single lane bridges crossed spans of lakes that stretched for miles of coastline. The air was a special sort of clean–fresh, revitalizing breezes filled our lungs with the promise of coming spring. It was truly breathtaking.

We visited during the off season and found an AirBNB with a fantastic rate on a home with 5 beds in the countryside. The home was in the middle of nowhere which was exactly what we were looking for. The downside to going in the off season was that many restaurants close down and it can be a longer drive and bit of a scavenger hunt to find some things. However, we did enjoy having a kitchen to make breakfasts and a wonderfully quaint restaurant right on the water, Ripples. Athena, my spirited chocolate lab, especially enjoyed bounding at full speed through the country. No leash, lots of space and countless sheep to watch!

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Derry or Londonderry

The city of Derry is actually in Northern Ireland, part of the United Kingdom. The Brits call it Londonderry. It is the last walled city in Ireland and we went there especially to stroll along the wall of the city. There are magnificent Cathedrals, cannons lining the wall and plenty of unique shops to enjoy. I started the morning at a cute coffee shop called Java. Armed with caffeine and scones my family took on the wall and started our journey through town. There are craft and art stores with beautiful crystal, paintings and jewelry. The city hall is a must see stop along the way that was built in the late 1800’s. It boasts gorgeous stained glass windows, a clock tower and a large hall upstairs with a built-in organ that spans the length of a wall. We ate lunch in a lovely restaurant called Brickwork. It was not only affordable for a family of five but includes tasty options for both kids and adults. They made me a mocha which wasn’t even on their menu.

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Letterkenny

Letterkenny is a smaller town and we didn’t stay there for too long. We found a brewery for dinner and then walked along the Main Street of town. My favorite part of Letterkenny was going into St. Eunan’s Cathedral. We arrived after 5:00p.m. and I only expected to see it from the outside. To my surprise, the Church was open. I normally go to Cathedrals during the day when light showers through the stained glass, bathing the sanctuary in vivid colors. I have to imagine that this Church would be impressive on sunny days. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed visiting this Cathedral after it was already dark outside. It was dimly lit, quiet, very still and peaceful inside. I don’t believe I’ve been in a Cathedral with this little of light and it held a certain magic.

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Glenveagh National Park

Glenveagh National Park is a stunning place to go for a walk. There are several trails and hikes of different lengths. There is a carpark (parking lot for my American readers) when you enter the park next to the visitor center. The scenic walk along the trail from the Visitor center to Glenveagh Castle is 3 km. There is also a bus available to and from the castle for a small fee. Once you reach the castle, you can purchase tickets to see it by guided tour. There are manicured gardens and sculptures around the castle as well and a cafe with seating at the rear of the castle. I only made it to the Castle and Gardens but there are many other trails that you can check out here. The castle is picturesque and sits on the edge of a large lake. At the base is an infinity pool that sits right next to the lake. It is well worth the time!

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Donegal

While our time was spent mainly in County Donegal, we also stopped into the city of Donegal for some Irish souvenirs and baked goods before we headed back to Dublin. There is a Donegal Craft Village not too far from the center of town. If you are going during the off season as I did then you may find yourself disappointed with only a couple of the shops open. `It does look like a great place to shop from local artists during their peak season. While you are in town, you can tour Donegal Castle and there plenty of one of a kind shops. Stop into Hanna Hats to choose from a large selection of quality Irish woven tweed flat cap hats made in Donegal. There is also a store called Magee of Donegal with excellent knit and tweed clothing for men and women. I especially liked their colorful capes and coats and the variety available. There is a bounty of cute shops with souvenirs and items ranging from clothing, hats and scarves to jewelry, glass and pottery all made in the area.

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